Saturday, November 19, 2016

Salzburg to Prague and Prague to Dresden...by bicycle -- Sept 2016

After we left Albania on the 30th of Aug, we flew to Vienna and took a train to Salzburg to start a cycling trip to Prague, Czech Republic and onward to Dresden, Germany.

This was the 3rd year in a row for us to take a cycling vacation and the 2nd year with the same company, 'Top Bicycle'...here is their website if you are interested in reading up on the many trips they offer:  http://www.topbicycle.com/BicycleTourSalzburgPrague.htm.

We booked 2 trips, back-to-back starting in Austria and riding through Czech Republic continuing into Germany.  The first trip started in Salzburg, Austria and ended in Prague, Czech Republic 237 miles north.  See the map below of our 1st trip and later in the blog for the 2nd map of trip 2.
Europe Bicycle Tour - Salzburg to Prague
We spent 3 days touring old and new(er) Salzburg, on both sides of the Salzach River.  We also took a bus tour to the Eagle's Nest, Hitler's retreat and meeting spot high on Kehlstein mountain about 30 kms (20 miles) south in Germany.  As many know, Salzburg is the birthplace of Mozart and the setting of the 'Sound of Music'.  Nestled in the northern boundary of the Alps, it is, indeed, a gem.
new Salzburg on the left and old Salzburg on the right 
First stop, the 'new-er' side of Salzburg
Our hotel





Outdoor street market goodies




Mozart's wife, Constanze's grave in the beautiful city cemetery
Mozart's home during his teen years




Mirabell Palace and Gardens
Mirabell Gardens and view of the Castle



the famous 'do-te-la-fa-me-do-re' steps from the 'Sound of Music'
Moving over to the right or old-er side of Salzburg
Hohensalzburg Castle above old Salzburg


the old-er city view
Salzburg Cathedral--with 'Maria's' Abbey behind



old town shopping district--with lots of tourists
interesting signs indicating the type of business...can you guess this one?



or this one?
where Mozart was born in 1756



Salzburg's Cathedral



Winkler Terrace--walking from the Castle to the Modern Art Museum


town from the Modern Art Museum






a very cute Bavarian couple
Our last day in Salzburg, we boarded a bus and took a trip to the Eagle's Nest which was a gift to Hitler for his 50th birthday, from Martin Bormann, Hitler's personal secretary.  It was paid for by the Nazi Party and used as a retreat and place to host friends and dignitaries.  Some views of the area...
look closely on top of that far away hill

a view from the window

inside the dining room




Salzburg - St. Gilgen -- day 1 of cycling -- 31 miles
The 1st day of cycling took us from Salzburg, through farmland and into the Salzkammergut (known as the Lake District--with 76 lakes in all) and into the quaint village of St. Gilgen.
2 cyclists ready to ride













Lake Mondsee


Buddy met Herman on his electric bike
The little village of St. Gilgen on the shore of Lake Wolfgangsee



our hotel


Rathaus of St. Gilgen
beautiful village square

pretty refreshing
St. Gilgen - Gmunden - Linz --day 2 of cycling -- 41 miles
More beautiful cycling in the lake district.
Lake Wolfgangsee

Lake Traunsee
Johannesberg Chapel in the town of Traunkirchen







Schloss Ort castle in Gmunden



After cycling 41 miles, we ended our ride in Gmunden, along the shore of Lake Traunsee and took a train the last 75 kms to our evening destination of Linz.  We stayed in the Wolfinger, the same hotel we stayed in last year.

downtown Linz
Linz - Vyssi Brod - Cesky Krumlov -- day 3 of cycling -- 30 miles
We left Linz in cooler temps with intermittent rain and miles and miles of climbing.  The hardest day by far for cycling.  The views were lovely--note the Danube on the valley floor in the distance--but the steady climb and cool temps made it a long grueling day of riding.  Our respite was the town of Cesky Krumlov and our 1st time ever of visiting Czech Republic.














What a relief going downhill and crossing the border (see below) into Czech Republic on our way to Cesky Krumlov a world heritage site and home of the 2nd largest castle complex in Czech Republic which dates back to the 13th century with lots of Bohemian history.
the former border crossing Austria - Czech Republic (now closed)


our hotel, Peregrin, with views of the castle
main square in Cesky Krumlov








Our 1st Czech meal consisting of locally brewed dark beer, fresh salad for 2, pork and potatoes for Buddy and potato pancakes and cabbage for Aly.

Cesky Krumlov - Hluboka nad Vltavou -- day 4 of cycling -- 27 miles


Leaving Cesky Krumlov we wound our way to the home of the ORIGINAL Budweiser or Budvar, as the Czech call it, in the town of Ceske Budejovice in the center of South Bohemia.





celebrating Buddy's 68th with our 1st Budvar


Arriving in the village of Hluboka nad Vltavou for the eve.
our hotel

The Hluboka castle, considered one of thee most picturesque historical sites in all of Czech Republic.


a prince on his birthday with his princess!









sharing secrets...
A lovely place for a delicious dinner across from our hotel.

Hluboka nad Vltavou - Pisek -- day 5 of cycling -- 34 miles
Cycling though the Vltava valley, crossing the Pisecke mountains we will end the day in the historic and very charming town of Pisek on the Otava river.



an old time wooden raft



Apple trees everywhere...




After climbing the last hill of the day in the Pisecke Mountains Nature Park, we descend into the lovely town of Pisek with it's royal castle, historic church, 13th century stone bridge, baroque houses, old statues, memorials, monastery and malt house.  A fun place to walk around.






our hotel in Pisek

13th century Stone Bridge--the oldest in Czech Republic
Statue on the bridge


sand sculptures on the banks of the river


The Royal Castle and Malt house on the river
Town Hall

The Hotel Dvoracek with it's beautiful paintings on the outside.  This used to be one of the most luxurious hotels in South Bohemia.  Built in 1899.


we chose this cozy corner restaurant for dinner
Pisek - Pribram -- day 6 of cycling -- 41 miles

Zvikov castle along the way
Orlik castle--considered one of the most beautiful Czech castles (we thought the Hluboka castle 2 days prior was much more glorious).  Currently owned by the Minister of Foreign Affairs in the Czech Government.  We toured this castle but you were not allowed to snap any photos.

River Vltava
Countryside out of the mountains on the way to Pribram and Prague.

Pribram Chateau in the town of Pribram which dates back to the 13th century.
Our Penzion in Pribram




busy little place across from our Penzion--look closely--recognize anyone?
Buddy with some new buddies!



Pribram Chateau

Pribram - Prague -- day 7 of cycling -- 33 miles


Heading towards the Berounka River, the Royal Castle of Karlstejn towers over the small village of the same name.  This gothic castle was built in 1348 as a place for safe keeping the royal treasures of the Roman Empire.










From Karlstejn, after cycling the final 33 miles of part 1 of our 2 part bike trip (yeah, 237 miles behind us!!), we were shuttled the busy remaining 30 kms (18 miles) into the center of Prague where we stayed for 3 days, visiting this gorgeous 'city of a hundred spires'.
our lovely Hotel Constans on a quiet little cobblestone road


Prague - The capital and largest city in Czech Republic it hosts over 8 million visitors per year.  It is Europe's 15th largest city and the 5th most visited city in Europe.  With some of the most beautiful and famous cultural attractions, we stayed for 3 days before setting off on part 2 of our bike trip.  The below shots are just some of MANY we took while touring the city.
the tower on one side of the Charles Bridge--with many, many tourists
Walking across the pedestrian Charles Bridge, absolutely gorgeous BUT BUSY!










The Vltava River from the Charles Bridge




The Prague Castle by night




Some local flavor


Changing of the guard at the Castle--at noon every day



Street stalls selling really great grilled meats, veggies and beers--we partook!
These Vintage Roadsters were EVERYWHERE taking tourists all over town.




St. Salvator Church on the other side of the Charles Bridge







Street musicians everywhere advertising their music.




We bought ourselves (to share) this delicious ice cream treat!


Beautiful views of the city...

The Royal Coat of Arms in the square of the Castle



the Church at the Royal Castle


spires and turrets...
stairs up to the Castle by day
Church of Our Lady Victorious





The Animated Astronomical Clock
Colorful Smetanovo Narezi Buildings lining the Vltava River





Gas lighting is all over the city, making for lovely evening shots...


The Castle stairs by night





After touring Prague for 3 days we were ready to get back on the saddle and continue the 2nd part of our 2-part bike trip.  We were shuttled out to our starting point, about 10 kms from the city center to start cycling along the Vltava River which would, later on day 1, join the Elbe River and take us into Dresden, Germany.
Trip 2--Prague to Dresden 145 miles along the Elbe River
Bicycle Tour Elbe River Trail Prague - Dresden map
Prague - Melnik -- day 1 of cycling -- 33 miles
Out of Prague cycling along the Vltava river before the confluence of the Elbe--just beautiful...

2 Swiss cyclists riding in the same direction
Chateau Veltrusy


cyclists in the making
Hops growing fields

We had to summons the local ferry to take us across the channel.  Quite ingenuous really--you go to the small green sign and ring the bell which rang in the house across the river and the ferry driver came to pick you up and take you across the river.  The fee was $1/person including bike.


The beautiful Melnik Chateau and vineyards of Jiri Lobkowicz.
Locks on the channel before the confluence of the Vltava and the Elbe.

Melnik with City Hall





Our lodging for the night in Melnik, Apartment U Zamku.


Confluence of the Vltava and Elbe rivers

Church of St Peter and Paul dating between the 10th and 11th centuries




Melnik - Litomerice -- day 2 of cycling -- 31 miles
We met up with old friends whom we met cycling in Italy in 2014, Heiner and Katrin from Berlin.  The plan was to finish this trip with them, then visit their home in Berlin before returning home.  We all had a great time.















Flood waters along the Elbe River...look closely under the TOP of the monument in the shadows...the 2012 flood...that's a LOT of water!



St Catherine Church
This entire area is so rich with world history, and as with our 2 prior years of cycling in central Europe, we visited yet another site reminding us of horrific days past.  We rode to the town of Terezin and the Terezin Fortress, originally built in 1780.  The fort, in early peacetime, housed soldiers, and was also used as a Austro-Hungarian prison, but during WWII, the prison was taken over by Gestapo and housed German prisoners and Jews alike.  Over 150,000 Jews lived in the 'ghetto' (Terezin town) and though this was considered a 'work camp', not an 'extermination camp', over 33,000 died in the ghetto, mostly due to malnutrition, disease, over population and deplorable conditions.  Thousands were sent to Auschwitz for death.  Over 1,500 Jews died in the small fortress prison.  Down by the river, a memorial was constructed, where in November 1944 ashes of over 22,000 victims from the ghetto were thrown into the river.
today a national cemetery of over 10,000, mostly unidentified

'Works makes one free'





Remembering over 22,000 victims
It's never 'fun' visiting a place like Terezin, but more a harsh reality of humankind.  Makes ya wanna hug your dog, or it does me...anyway, after visiting Terezin, we rode onward to our hotel in Litomerice, the Hotel Salva Guarda right on the main square.


a neat old place where we chose for an outside dinner

Town at dusk...
Cathedral of St Stephen

Litomerice - Decin -- day 3 of cycling -- 33 miles
Just one of the DELICIOUS breakfasts to get us going each morning...








that's real raw honey still in the comb! 



With all that food, we were fueled up for more adventures down the Elbe!
Strekov Castle above the village of Usti Nad Labem

hoofing the bike up and over the loch

an old bunker



Coming into the town of Decin seeing the Patyrska Stena.

the Decin Chateau from below

our hotel in Decin

Tetschen Castle

church of Holy Rood


on the castle grounds
On the walk up to the castle, through the gate...


Decin -- Bad Schandau -- day 4 of cycling -- 18 miles (and 3 hours of hiking)
Today was a short day of cycling--only 18 miles--as they gave us time to go on a lovely 3 hour hike up/back to visit one of the only natural arches in Europe in an area called the Switzerland of Bohemia.  We crossed into Germany by bike, then took the ferry across the river back to Czech to hike up to the Pravcicka Brana and the Hotel Sokoli Hnizdo.  It was a LOVELY day, our last day in Czech, our 1st day in Germany and the 2nd to the last day of our cycling journey.  The weather was gorgeous and the biking and hiking were fabulous!
leaving Decin


Czech Republic and Germany border



on the hike to Pravcicka Brana--in the Switzerland of Bohemia








2 Bohemian hiking cyclists in gorgeous territory


back on the river trail looking at the village of Schmulka





Bad Schandau, Germany--1st night in Germany on this trip



Our hotel, Elbe Hotel, in the charming town of Bad Schandau
St Johannis Church built in the 17th century
Meal for 4 after a GRAND hiking/biking day.

Bad Schandau -- Dresden -- day 5 of cycling -- 30 miles
Today would be our last day of cycling.  The reality of the trip coming to an end was in sight and we were saddened, not only that our trip would be finishing, but also because our last day would be riding in the cold rain!  It was only our 2nd day of riding in the rain, but because we were late in the season and further north, the temps were cooler, the clouds were lower and our visibility was limited...we didn't take many photos, but did wind our way to Dresden, our final destination on this fabulous bike trip.





Cycling into Dresden, snapping some of the sights and riverside chateaus.





We made it to our destination, our final hotel, Rothenburger Hof, in Dresden, Germany 147 miles from Prague, or 382 miles (by bicycle) from where we started in Salzburg, Austria.  We will leave the bikes here in Dresden, continue to Berlin with Heiner and Katrin for a visit with them, before returning home.

Dresden -The city was destroyed in WWII--but has been and is being rebuilt and despite the rain, was an interesting city to stroll around in.  First stop, the Golden Rider, the most famous statue in Dresden.





Dresden Frauenkirche or Church of our Lady from across the river

Bruhlsche Terrasse


Aly, Heiner and Katrin in the drizzle

Dresden Castle--Residenzchloss
Dresden Roman Catholic Cathedral
Old and New remains of the Dresden Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady)





Dresden Frauenkirche--Church of our Lady
The mural on the outside of the Dresden Castle is stunning tile work.  It is the largest porcelain artwork in the world.  Called 'The Furstenzug', or 'the procession of the princes'--the mural depicts the rulers of the region between 1127 and 1904.








Dresden to Berlin (by car)  We left Dresden after a day and a half of touring the city in the rain and headed north to Berlin, first stopping at the Moritzburg Castle--the filming location of the famous German/Czech fairy tale 'Three Nuts for Cinderella'.







Berlin - We made it to Berlin and spent 3 days with our friends Heiner and Katrin.  What fun to see a city with folks from that city...here are just a few shots of our time spent together...
Frau postal delivery

Berlin Television Tower known as Fernsehterm

Astronomical clock


Cute signpost statue in Nicholas' Quarter one of the oldest areas in the city--founded in 1200.



one of the oldest Inn's and drinking establishments in Berlin
Berlin Town Hall -- Rotes Rathaus

St George fighting the dragon


Berlin Cathedral Church






Altes Museum (old museum built between 1823-1830)
Neues Museum (the new museum) built between 1843-1855


Gendarmenmarkt at Bebelplatz

Brandenburg Gate
One of the many memorials of those who lost their lives trying to 'get to the other side'...

Reichstag--home of Parliament


One of the oldest churches, Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church built in 1890, was destroyed in the war, but left standing remains only 'The Hollow Tooth'


inside the lovely remains of this church



Checkpoint Charley


We went to visit the remaining bit of wall, which has never been torn down...in the area called the East Side Gallery--Katrin, our friend, remembers this area from when she was young--it was a solid grey concrete wall--not colorfully spray painted like we see today.  A forever reminder of the darkness of our past with the brightness of our future...





The city of Berlin skyline

Heiner and Katrin's neighborhood
Their apartment complex and their apartment




Thank you Katrin and Heiner!!

We end this trip with a September Berlin sunset.  We hope you enjoy our photos as much as we enjoy sharing.  One of the reasons we do this blog is so we have a 'place to visit' when our bodies and/or minds are too tired to physically or mentally take us places.  That being said, we have hope that we are able to share many more trips, wherever and whenever those may be.  Keep checking in as you never know when we'll be posting.  Be well...and Happy Thanksgiving to all.  We love you dad.  xoxo 💗